Compared to the races held during the Speed World Championship last week, the races in the Combined Finals remained clean and fast with no false starts and limited slips. “I suffered badly with nerves when I was younger,” admits Narasaki. Of the three disciplines, bouldering is arguably his strongest while speed climbing is the where he tends to finish lower down the field. Tomoa Narasaki thrilled the home crowd in Hachioji as he added the combined title to his bouldering crown at the IFSC Climbing World Championships.. Speed Climbing. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Another area where Honnold shines is in speed climbing. The speed portion of the weekend was marked by some surprising early exits. On the men’s side, Tomoa Narasaki won his second world title – his first since 2016 – with the only two tops in the field, beating Jakob Schubert of Austria and Yannick Flohe of Germany. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Vail World Cup 2019—Bouldering . Tomoa Narasaki (楢崎 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer. Er erreichte den zweiten Platz hinter dem Japaner Tomoa Narasaki. Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. It made me stiff going into competitions. While Seb Bouin has never climbed in a competition in his life, Tomoa Narasaki has never done anything but indoor climbing. With the Games just months away, is the man nicknamed “Ninja” starting to feel the pressure? Introduction. “I finished outside the medals at the previous championship in Austria after a false start in speed climbing, so I was determined to make up for that in Japan,” says Narasaki. Tomoa Narasaki, who has qualified to Tokyo, reports on Insta that he has run up the Speed wall in 5.8 seconds during a training session. Miho Nonaka Ekaterina Barashchuk of Russia and Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine won two extremely tight battles in the European Speed Championships, climbing atop the Speed podium and winning the 2020 European titles. Speed. “At the same time, they were naturally cautious as it’s not exactly a reliable profession. Since 2017, he has lifted two world cups in the combined event and last year triumphed at the Climbing World Championships in Hachioji, a competition that also served as a qualifying event for the Olympics with the top seven climbers automatically gaining a spot at the Games. Known for her mobility, Akiyo Noguchi is a four-time Climbing World Cup winner who qualified for the Olympics after finishing as runner-up at the 2019 Climbing World Championships. The current record holder is Reza Alipourshenazandifar with a time of 5.48 sec. Preparing for the Games this summer, the Japanese athlete is trying to devote an equal amount of time to each category and is happy with the way preparations are going. KAPLINA SETS NEW SPEED WORLD RECORD IN MOSCOW . He started climbing when he was 10 years old together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi’s family climbing gym. I usually start at around 10 or 11 in the morning with some speed exercises. The decision to combine the three main disciplines of lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering has been criticized by various competitors such as American climber Lynn Hill who said it was like “asking a middle-distance runner to compete in the sprint.”, “The challenge is tough because the three disciplines require different skill sets, but that’s something I enjoy”, Narasaki, however, sees it as an exciting prospect. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) Blazes Through the Only Two Tops of the Night, at the 2019 World Climbing Championships in Hachioji. Even someone not typically a fan of the discipline would’ve enjoyed the simplicity and intensity of the speed portion of the combined Finals. also finished in the top 10 in the men’s combined event at the 2019 Climbing World Championships, as did Ai Mori and Futaba Ito in the women’s competition, underlining Japan’s strength in climbing. Dritter wurde Jongwon Chon aus Korea. He is now sponsored by Unparalleled Climbing and used their shoes in Hachioji 2019. Tomoa Narasaki (楢崎 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer. The 2016 overall world champion Narasaki … So, in Tokyo this summer, anything less than a top-place finish for 23-year-old Tomoa Narasaki would be seen as a disappointment. The final four boulders were set very hard with none of the competitors other than Narasaki topping out. It is entertaining to watch and more importantly he wins metals. 1.0k. and More Masks: What’s New in Yokohama in December 2020, These Tetris-like Tokyo Lofts are Designed to Prolong Life, Beyond Beer: 4 New and Noteworthy Craft Beer Hubs in Tokyo, Shop Japan: 9 Accessories and Gift Ideas for the Upcoming Holiday Season. In the official PB ranking, Tomoa is fifth with 6.29 after Bassa Mawem 5.57, Ludovico Fossoli 5.78 Rishat Khaibullin 5.86 and Mickael Mawem 6.25. Taking second place is Jakob Schubert of Austria who managed three zones. [2] His younger brother Meichi Narasaki is also a professional sport climber. “The challenge is tough because the three disciplines require different skill sets, but that’s something I enjoy,” he tells TW. Highs and Lows: 2019 Climbing World Championships—Combined. “In between competitions, we play games together, go out for dinner, that kind of thing. It will be the same order at the Olympics.”. Especially for fans of Tomoa Narasaki. Last year, 24-year-old Tomoa Narasaki, from Japan, won the Bouldering World Championships for the second time. Meet the 2020 Athletes: World Champion Climber Tomoa Narasaki Has His Sights Set on Gold H e’s the number-one ranked male climber on the planet, the current world champion and world cup holder in the combined event (speed climbing, bouldering and lead). Enjoying the sense of freedom climbing gave him, he steadily improved and at 16 represented Japan at the World Youth Championships, finishing fourth in the lead event. User account menu . Tomoa Narasaki. Searching for something new, he decided to take up climbing after watching his older brother – and his younger sibling also soon followed suit. In Lead and Bouldering Tomoa Narasaki used the Unparallel Regulus climbing shoes. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) Age: 23. “At the same time, they were naturally cautious as it’s not exactly a reliable profession. I was told to give it a go for two years and if things didn’t work out, then I should go to university, though what I would have studied I don’t know.” [Laughs]. These days, I still have butterflies, but it’s a positive energy.”, “I visualize finishing on top of the podium and imagine how I would feel if I could win,” continues the climber. This is an interesting video which analyzes Tomoa climbing style on speed vs efficiency. After winning domestic and Asian junior titles, his breakthrough year as a professional came in 2016 when he lifted the bouldering Climbing World Cup (an annual competition that takes place in a variety of cities over several weeks) for the first time. Bouldering: Bouldering is the most physically taxing in terms of strength and co-ordination. Kai Harada Hopefully, we’ll have some medals to show for it at the end.”. You can get … Japan's Tomoa Narasaki storms to victory in the men's combined final, topping all three boulder walls at the Climbing World Championships in Japan. Initially, it was said to be two spots for the host nation with Kai Harada securing the second one in the men’s competition, however, there is a possibility that the allocation could increase, keeping alive the dreams of athletes such as Kokoro Fujii and Narasaki’s brother, Meichi. A rising star in sport climbing, Miho Nonaka won her first bouldering title at the Climbing World Cup in 2018. Akiyo Noguchi and Jakob Schubert claimed silver, Shauna Coxsey and Rishat Khaibullin bronze. His first major tournament as a professional was at the 2014 Climbing World Championships in Germany where he finished 10th in the bouldering event. © 2020 - 2021 Tokyo WeekenderAll rights reserved. You won't regret getting a ticket for this event in Innsbruck. He’s the number-one ranked male climber on the planet, the current world champion and world cup holder in the combined event (speed climbing, bouldering and lead). From a young age, Narasaki dreamed about becoming a sports star. Nach zwei nicht ganz so erfolgreichen Boulderweltcups zeigte sich Jan Hojer (DAV Frankfurt/Main), Boulderwelctup-Gesamtsieger 2014, beim 3. The 23-year-old also expects a tough challenge from competitors closer to home, though there is some confusion as to how many places will be available for Japan at the Games. During February, Akiyo Noguchi and Tomoa Narasaki, two Bouldering greats from Japan, are in Innsbruck to train and prepare for the World Championships. Press J to jump to the feed. I felt at that point I was capable of winning in the future,” he says. Though its inclusion was generally welcomed, many were disappointed that the proposed format featured just one event each for male and female competitors (it will be two each at the 2024 Paris Olympics). A rising star in sport climbing, Miho Nonaka won her first bouldering title at the Climbing World Cup in 2018. The Best Places to Buy Cheap Groceries in Japan, 5 Things I’ve Discovered, Struggled With and Learned From Japan After Returning ‘Home’ From Hawaii, “Suigei” Makes Memorable Splash in Japan’s Contemporary Sake Industry, Tokyo Mask Land, Mulabo! Then, after lunch, I move on to bouldering before finishing with lead in the evening. She has finished in fifth place in the combined competition at the last two Climbing World Championships. A surprise winner in the bouldering category of the 2018 Climbing World Championships, Kai Harada finished just outside the medals in the combined event at the 2019 tournament in Hachioji. In short, the 5.8 creates new conditions for the Olympic Games. When it comes to indoor climbing, though, Tomoa is the best. All three disciplines in one day are the Olympic Format. Meichi Narasaki and Kokoro Fujii also finished in the top 10 in the men’s combined event at the 2019 Climbing World Championships, as did Ai Mori and Futaba Ito in the women’s competition, underlining Japan’s strength in climbing. Akiyo Noguchi He followed that up by taking home the gold in the same discipline at the Climbing World Championships in Paris where he finished ahead of the Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra, a man described as the “leading climber of his generation.”. e’s the number-one ranked male climber on the planet, the current world champion and world cup holder in the combined event (speed climbing, bouldering and lead). Of course, it would be amazing to go up against my brother on the biggest stage as we often train together and enjoy the rivalry. After a fourth and 22 place Lead and Speed finish, respectively, he went on to place first in the Combined World Championships as well, thus earning his Olympic berth. “There’s a lot of work involved. “We have many men and women who are capable of contesting for medals, it’s a shame for those that have to miss out. We all love Tomoa Narasaki. His older brother Tomoa Narasaki is also a professional sport climber. We met up with them for a short conversation at our office before they headed to the gym to train. “While it wasn’t exactly the result I was hoping for, it did give me a good insight into the kind of level I would be competing against. Tomoa Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi have boosted Japan's hopes of a medal when sport climbing makes its Olympic debut next year after winning gold and silver at the Climbing World Championships in Tokyo. With a time of 6,964 seconds, Iuliia Kaplina of Russia achieved a new Speed World Record in the Speed qualification round of the … Your email address will not be published. That’s what will be going through my mind before the tournament begins in Tokyo. Tomoa Narasaki in Combined World Championship Finals, Hachioji, Japan. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Wujiang World Cup 2019—Bouldering and Speed. At elementary school, he took up artistic gymnastics but stopped in the fourth grade because he suddenly found one of the routines daunting. (Tomoa Narasaki) The Speed Japan Cup has also been set up this year not just to offer the opportunity to check their times but to provide more tournament experience, in which they have to beat the climbers next to them to advance in the latter stages just as at the worlds and the Olympics. They are a very stiff, downturned, and aggressive shoe for steep and challenging bouldering and sport climbing. “I overthought things, focusing too much on potential negatives. [1] In 2016, he won both the Bouldering World Championship and the Bouldering World Cup and in 2019 he won the Bouldering World Cup. Born in Utsunomiya, 50 kilometres north of Tokyo, Narasaki got a lucky break right at the start of his climbing career when - aged 10 - he was taken under the wing of legendary Japanese climber Sachi Amma. r/climbing. His suave dynamic cut loose climbing style is sight to behold. Tomoa used to be sponsored by Five Ten and wear their Hiangles. “The fact that there were Olympic places up for grabs gave the tournament an extra edge but for me, it was all about winning my first combined world title.”. The first World Championships medals in this format will be awarded at the Olympiaworld in Innsbruck Tyrol during the IFSC Climbing World Championships. Instead, I mean this: The art of climbing big walls as fast as possible, forgoing traditional safety and ethics to get to the top in the least amount of time, is the type of speed climbing that Alex excels at. And yes we are scared of falling. [3], Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup, "Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics", "Tomoa Narasaki earns second overall World Cup bouldering title", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Tomoa_Narasaki&oldid=982262592, Articles using Template:Medal with Winner, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 7 October 2020, at 02:29. Janja Garnbret und Tomoa Narasaki sind die adidas ROCKSTARS 2016 Sep 27, 2016 Über 70 Athleten aus 22 Nationen trafen beim adidas ROCKSTARS Boulder Invitational aufeinander, um auf einer großen Bühne zu mitreißender Livemusik die Besten der Besten zu küren. Meichi Narasaki (楢崎 明智 Narasaki Meichi, born May 13, 1999) is a Japanese professional sport climber and boulderer. So, in Tokyo this summer, anything less than a top-place finish for 23-year-old Tomoa Narasaki would be seen as a disappointment. The Climbing World Championships 2019 came to an end at Hachioji in Japan earlier this week with the Combined World Championship, the intense one-day mix of Lead, Boulder and Speed for the best 8 won by Janja Garnbret and Tomoa Narasaki. The victory elevated the Ninja to the top of the world rankings above Ondra and Austria’s Jakob Schubert, the two men he feels could present the biggest threat in Tokyo. My objective is to win gold and I believe I can do it.”. Speed: The speed climbing competition is simply a race up a 15m wall. Tomoa Narasaki has won the 2019 Bouldering IFSC World Championships Finals in Hachioji, Japan. Two years later, he decided to turn pro. Find events calendar, all past and future results, rankings, IFSC news, photos, videos. He actually managed two tops and four bonus zones. She has finished in fifth place in the combined competition at the last two Climbing World Championships. Speed climbing, bouldering, and lead taken together: that is the Combined discipline. If you watched the competition in Moscow last weekend you may have heard some talk about the new starting beta that was, according to the announcers, made popular at the international level by Tomoa Narasaki last year at the combined championships. Clean Runs and Speedy Finish With run times consistently clocking in under 7 seconds, each climber had to work hard to advance to the next round, including speed climbing specialist Rishat KHAIBULLIN (KAZ). By this, I don’t mean the Olympic sport, where athletes race up a 20-meter wall via a pre-set route. That said, I’ll be happy for whoever makes the team.”, “There is a close bond between the Japanese climbers,” adds the Utsunomiya native. It gives me confidence. log in sign up. A surprise winner in the bouldering category of the 2018 Climbing World Championships, Kai Harada finished just outside the medals in the combined event at the 2019 tournament in Hachioji. Narasaki’s self-belief certainly wasn’t misplaced. Recap, Highlights, and Photo Gallery: IFSC Moscow World Cup 2018—Bouldering and Speed. Narasaki also topped the second and third boulders, but his compatriot Kai Harada stayed in the hunt (and topped the dynamic fourth boulder) on the way to earning second place. 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Close. “My parents were supportive,” recalls Narasaki. Narasaki, who started sport climbing when he was in elementary school, wants to improve upon his national record of 6.159 seconds on the speed wall to increase his lead over his rivals. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics. Tomoa Narasaki pulled off a nearly flawless showing Friday in bouldering qualification for sport climbing's men's combined event at the Asian Games. A month before Narasaki’s victory in France came the news that climbing would be one of five sports added to the 2020 Olympics program. 1.0k. Using his patented explosive style, Tomoa has propelled himself to 17 world-cup boulder medals in the past 4 years and three bouldering world championships. “Climbing in this country is so strong right now,” opines Narasaki. Schubert, with one top, placed third. At the moment, I’m training five days a week. “To be successful I feel I need to have that thought process. Stop der diesjährigen Wettkampfserie in Topform. Read More . But he’s still pretty good at it! Photo courtesy of IFSC, 2019. The grip design and placement is standard on walls around the world to ensure uniformity and comparable times on any standard wall. Tomoa is a fan of Friction Labs chalk, a high end chalk that markets itself as scientifically better for climbing, with better grip and coverage. “I was told to give it a go for two years and if things didn’t work out, then I should go to university, though what I would have studied I don’t know”, “My parents were supportive,” recalls Narasaki. The Japanese took a solid advantage into the lead section after finishing second in speed and winning the bouldering element. Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019—Bouldering. r/climbing: The home of Climbing on reddit. Posted by 5 months ago. 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